
Obb 


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Cnwi*X ; 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING 



ARCHI E S. MILTON 
OTTO K. WOHLERS 




THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY 

MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN 






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PREFACE 



This book is the outgrowth of problems given to high 
school pupils by the writers, and has been compiled in 
logical sequence. Stress is laid upon the proper use of 
tools, and the problems are presented in such a way 
that each exercise, or project, depends somewhat on the 
one preceding. It is not the idea of the writers that all 
problems shown should be made, but that the instructor 
select only such as will give the pupils enough prelim- 
inary work in the use of the tools to prepare them for 
other models following. 

The related matter on the care of the lathe and tools, 
the grinding of chisels, the polishing of projects, and 
the specific directions and cautions for working out the 
various exercises and projects with the drawings, make 
the book not only valuable for reference, but also as a 
class text to be studied in connection with the making of 
projects. The drawings show exact dimensions and are 
tabulated in the upper right-hand corner in such a way 
that they may be used in a filing case if desired. At 
least two designs are shown for each model, and these 
may be used as suggestions from which students, with 
the aid of the instructor, may work out their own 
designs. 



The book has been divided into two parts : (A) 
Spindle Turning, and (B) Face-Plate Turning. The 
same order is followed in each part ; the related informa- 
tion is supplied where required as the pupil progresses. 

Part A takes up the following: (I) Exercises; (II) 
Models, involving the same tool processes, only in a 
somewhat different degree ; (III) Oval Turning, explain- 
ing the use of two centers ; (IV) Duplicate Turning, 
where identical pieces are turned. 

Part B is arranged as follows: (I) Exercises; (II) 
Models, which are an application of cuts in exercises that 
involve only face-plate work; (III) Models, which 
require chucking; (IV) Assembling Exercises, involving 
spindle turning, face-plate work and chucking; (V) 
Spiral Turning, showing the method of turning a spiral 
on the lathe. 

The ultimate aim of this book is to give, through the 
exercises and problems, a thorough understanding of the 
principles of wood turning by gradually developing the 
confidence of the pupil in the complete control of his 
tools, at the same time suggesting harmonious lines in 
design which will lead to other ideas in designing prob- 
lems. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. Pages 

Introductory — Commercial and Educational Values of 

Wood Turning — Elements of Success 9-10 

CHAPTER II. 
The Lathe — Care of the Lathe — Speed of the Lathe — 
Method of Figuring the Diameter of Pulleys — Rules 
for Finding the Speeds and Sizes of Pulleys — Points 
on Setting Up the Lathe and Shafting 11-14 

CHAPTER III. 
Wood Turning Tools — Grinding and Whetting Turning 
Tools — The Gouge — The Parting Tool — Scraping 
Tools 15-18 

CHAPTER IV. 
Spindle Turning — Centering Stock — Clamping Stock in the 
Lathe — Adjusting the Tool Rest — Position of the 
Operator at the Lathe — Holding the Tools — Use of the 
Tools in Spindle Turning 19-21 

CHAPTER V. 
Tool Processes in Spindle Turning — The Roughing Cut — 
The Sizing Cut — The Smoothing Cut — Testing for 
Smoothness — Measuring for Length — Squaring Ends 
— Cutting Off — Shoulder Cuts — Taper Cuts— V Cuts — 
Concave Cuts — Convex Cuts — Combination Cuts — 
Chisel Handles — Mallets and Handles — Vise Handles. .22-32 



CHAPTER VI. Pages 
Oval Turning — Tool Operations 33-34 

CHAPTER VII. 
Duplicate Turning — Use of Measuring Stick — Use of Tem- 
plets 35 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Finishing and Polishing — Ordinary Cabinet Finishing — 

French Polishing — Method of Applying French Polish. 36-38 

CHAPTER IX. 
Face-Plate and Chuck Turning — Methods of Fastening 
Stock — Small Single Screw Face-Plate — Large Surface 
Screw Face-Plate — Gluing to Waste Stock — Lathe Ad- 
justments — Position of Tool Rest 39-40 

CHAPTER X. 

Tool Processes in Face-Plate and Chuck Turning — Straight 
Cuts — Roughing Off Corners — Calipering for Diameter 
— Smoothing Cut — Roughing Cut on the Face — 
Smoothing the Face — Laying Off Measurements — Ex- 
ternal Shoulders — Internal Shoulders — Taper Cuts — 
V Cuts — Concave Cuts — Convex Cuts — Combination 
Cuts — Use of Scraping Tools — Internal Boring — Turn- 
ing a Sphere 41-48 

CHAPTER XI. 
Spiral Turning — Single Spiral, Straight Shaft — Tapered 
Shaft— Double Spiral, Tapered Shaft— Double Spiral, 
Straight Shaft— Double Groove Spiral, Straight Shaft. 49-55 



PLATES— SPINDLE TURNING. 

Pages 

Straight Cuts 57 

Shoulder Cuts 59- 65 

Taper Cuts 67- 77 

V Cuts 79- 81 

Concave Cuts 83- 87 

Convex Cuts 89- 95 

Combination Cuts 97-101 

Chisel Handles 103-107 

Cabinet File Handle 109 

Scratch Awl Handle Ill 

Carving Tool Handle 113 

Turning Chisel Handle 115 

Mallets 117-119 

Gavels 121-127 

Darning Eggs 129-133 

Stocking Darner 131 

Potato Masher 135 

Rolling Pins 139-141 

Vise Handle 143 

Screw Driver Handles 145-147 

Pene Hammer Handle 149 

Claw Hammer Handle 151 

Indian Clubs 153-155 

Dumb Bells 157-159 

Ten Pins 161 

PLATES— CHUCK TURNING. 

Straight Cuts 167-169 

Shoulder Cuts 171-173 



Pages 

Taper Cuts 175-177 

V Cuts 179-181 

Concave Cuts 183-185 

Convex Cuts 187-189 

Combination Cuts 191-195 

Match Boxes 197-201 

Pin Trays 203-205 

Hair Pin Receivers 207-209 

Hat Pin Receivers 211-213 

Ornamental Vases 215-219 

Spinnet 221 

Towel Rings 223-227 

Card Trays 229-235 

Picture Frames 237-243 

Nut Bowls . . .". 245-251 

Napkin Rings 253-257 

Jewel Boxes 259-273 

Collar Boxes 275-279 

Sphere 281 

Checker Men 283 

Candle Sticks 285-293 

Shaving Stands 295-301 

Reading Lamp Stands 303-307 

Pedestal 309 

Smokers" Stands 311-313 

Pin Cushion and Spoon Holder 315 

Chess Men 317-319 

Pedestals 321-325 

Electric Reading Lamps 327-335 

Magazine H olders 337-339 



CLASSIFICATION OF PLATES 



ii. 



Exercises 

1. Straight Cuts, a 

2. Shoulder Cuts, a-b-c-d 

3. Taper Cuts, a-b-c-d-e-f 

4. V Cuts, a-b 

5. Concave Cuts, a-b-c 

6. Convex Cuts, a-b-c-d 

7. Combination Cuts, a-b-c 

Exercises 

1. Straight Cuts, a-b 

2. Shoulder Cuts, a-b 

3. Taper Cuts, a-b 

4. V Cuts, a-b 

5. Concave Cuts, a-b 

6. Convex Cuts, a-b 

7. Combination Cuts, a-b-c 
Face-Plate Models 

1. Match Boxes, a-b-c 

2. Pin Trays, a-b 

3. Hair Pin Receivers, a-b 

4. Hat Pin Receivers, a-b 

5. Ornamental Vases, a-b-c 



A. SPINDLE TURNING 
II. Models III. 

1. Chisel Handles, a-b-c-d-e-f-g 

2. Mallets, a-b 

3. Gavels, a-b-c-d IV. 

4. Stocking Darners, a-b-c 

5. Potato Mashers, a-b 

6. Rolling Pins, a-b 

7. Vise Handles, a 

FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING 
6. Spinnet, (game) a 
III. Chuck Models 

1. Towel Rings, a-b-c 

2. Card Trays, a-b-c-d 

3. Picture Frames, a-b-c-d 

4. Nut Bowels, a-b-c-d 

5. Napkin Rings, a-b-c 

6. Jewel Boxes, a-b-c-d-e-f-g-h V, 

7. Collar Boxes, a-b-c 

8. Spheres, a 

9. Checker Men, a 
IV. Assembling Exercises 

1. Candle Sticks, a-b-c-d-e 

2. Shaving Stands, a-a'-b-b' 



Oval Turning 

1. Screw-driver Handles, a-b 

2. Hammer Handles, a-b 
Duplicate Turning 

1. Indian Clubs, a-b 

2. Dumb-bells, a-b 

3. Tenpins, a 

4. Drawer Pulls, a-b 



3. Reading Lamp Stands, a-b-c 

4. Pedestals, a 

5. Smoking Stands, a-b 

6. Pin Cushions and Spool 

Holder, a 

7. Chess Men, a-a' 

Spiral Turning 

1. Pedestal, (Single) a-a', 

(Double) b 

2. Reading Lamps, 

(Single) a-a'-a" 
(Double) b-b' 

3. Magazine Holder, a-a' 



CHAPTER I 



INTRODUCTORY 



Wood turning has had a definite place in the com- 
mercial world for a great many years. It is used in 
various forms in making furniture and furniture parts, 
building trim, tool parts, toys, athletic paraphernalia and 
many other useful and beautiful articles in common use. 

When properly taught in the schools it is one of the 
most valuable types of instruction. It appeals to pupils 
more than any other type of manual work, as it em- 
bodies both the play and work elements. It is very 
interesting and fascinating and, in the hands of a skilled 
instructor, is readily correlated with other work. 

Wood turning gives a pupil preliminary experience 
necessary in pattern making and machine shop work. 
It brings into play the scientific element by demonstrat- 
ing the laws governing revolving bodies. In bringing 
the chisel into contact with the revolving surface, the 
mathematical principle of the "point of tangency" is 
illustrated. Excellent tool technique is developed in 
wood turning as on the exactness of every movement 
depends the success of the operator, and any slight varia- 



tion will spoil a piece of work. This brings in a very 
close correlation of the mental and motor activities and 
also gives the student an opportunity for observing and 
thinking while at work. When his tool makes a "run" 
he must determine the reason and figure out why a cer- 
tain result is obtained when the chisel is held in a given 
position. Certain cuts must be fully mastered, and it 
takes a good deal of experience and absolute confidence 
in one's self in manipulating the tools before it is pos- 
sible to attempt skilful work. If scraping is allowed the 
educational value of the work is lost. 

In wood turning a vast field for design and modeling 
is opened, and art and architecture can be correlated. 
The pupil will see for himself the need of variety in 
curves and must use his judgment in determining curves 
that are so harmonious and pleasing that they will blend 
together. If properly taught the beauty in the orders of 
architecture can be brought out in the making of the 
bead, fillet, scoria, cove, etc. 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



A feeling of importance is excited in a boy when he 
sees his hands shaping materials into objects of pleasing 
form. Wood turning properly taught awakens the 
aesthetic sense and creates a desire for the beautiful. 
The boy or man who has learned to make graceful curves 
and clean-cut fillets and beads will never be satisfied with 
clumsy effects which are characteristic in cheap com- 
mercial work, made only to sell. 



Success in turning depends on the following: 

1. Care of lathe, tools, selection of materials. 

2. Study of the scientific elements of — 

a. Revolving bodies. 

b. Points of tangency. 

c. Study of results by reasoning and observing. 

3. Development of technique and exactness. 

4. Correlation of mental and motor activities. 



CHAPTER II 



THE LATHE 



The sizes of turning lathes are given as 10", 12", etc. 
These figures denote the diameter, or size, of the largest 
piece of work that can be turned on them. The measure- 
ment is taken from the center point of the live center to 
the bed of the lathe (usually 5" or 6") and is one-half the 
diameter of the entire circle. The length of a lathe 
is determined by the length of a piece of work that can 
be turned. This measurement is taken from the points 
of the live and dead centers when the tail stock is drawn 
back the full extent of the lathe bed. Fig. 1 shows 
a turning lathe with sixteen principal parts named. The 
student should learn the names of these parts and 
familiarize himself with the particular function of each. 

CARE OF THE LATHE 

The lathe should be oiled every day before starting. 
At the end of the period the lathe should be brushed 
clean of all chips and shavings, after which it should be 
rubbed off with a piece of waste or cloth to remove all 
surplus oil. All tools should be wiped clean and put in 



their proper places. If a student finds that his lathe is not 
running as it should, he should first call the attention of 
the instructor to that fact before attempting to adjust it ; 
and then only such adjustments should be made as the 
instructor directs. 

SPEED OF THE LATHE 

The speed of the lathe should range from 2400 to 
3000 revolutions per minute when the belt is on the 
smallest step of the cone pulley. At this speed stock up 
to 3" in diameter can be turned with safety. Stock from 
3" to 6" in diameter should be turned on the second or 
third step, and all stock over 6" on the last step. The 
speed at which a lathe should run depends entirely upon 
the nature of the work to be done and the kind of 
material used. Pieces that cannot be centered accurately 
and all glued-up work with rough corners should be run 
slowly until all corners are taken off and the stock runs 
true. At high speed the centrificial force on such pieces 
is very great, causing the lathe to vibrate, and there is a 



Wood Turr?/n<? Lathe. 



Jca/e i 1 / 




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14-. 
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e 



I Leg 

ZSed 

3. Head Stock. 

4 Toil Stock 

STool Rest 

bTail Stock Hand Wheel. 

7. To/1 -Stock Clomp Lerer 

&7b/l Jtock Clamp Bolt 

9. Dead Center. 
lO.Cone Pulleys. 
1 1. Thread for Face Plate. 
l2Ure Center 
I3.T Rest. 

14 TPest Adjustment. 
15. Tool Rest Clamp 
!6.Foce Plate. 



Fig. 1. 

n 



THE LATHE 



13 



possibility of the piece being thrown from the lathe thus 
endangering the worker as well as those around him. 
After the stock is running true the speed may be in- 
creased. 

TO FIGURE THE DIAMETER OF PULLEYS 

Suppose a motor runs 1500 R. P. M. and is fitted with 
a 4" pulley. Suppose also, a main shaft should run 300 
R. P. M. 

Then, 1500 : 300 :: x : 4; 
Or, 300x = 6000, 

x = 20, or the diameter of the 
large pulley on the main shaft. 

Suppose again that a line shaft runs 300 R. P. M., 
and a counter shaft 600 R. P. M. The counter shaft has 
a pulley 4" in diameter. The pulley on the line shaft 
must then have a diameter of 8". 

300 : 600 :: 4 : x; 
Or, 300x = 2400, 
x = 8" 

Suppose the cone pulley on the counter shaft runs 
600 R. P. M. ; a lathe spindle runs 2200 R. P. M., when 
connected with the small cone pulley which has a diam- 



eter of 3". The large cone pulley has then a diameter 
of 11". 

600 : 2200 : : 3 : x 

Or, 600x = 6600 ; 
x = 11" 

RULES FOR FINDING THE SPEEDS AND SIZES 
OF PULLEYS 

1. To find the diameter of the driving pulley: 
Multiply the diameter of the driven by the number of 

revolutions it should make and divide the product by the 
number of revolutions of the driver. (20 x 300 = 6000 ; 
6000 -f- 1500 = 4" — diameter of motor pulley.) 

2. To find the diameter of the driven pulley : 
Multiply the diameter of the driver by its number of 

revolutions and divide the product by the number of 
revolutions of the driven. (4 x 1500 = 6000; 6000 ■+■ 300 
= 20" — diameter of the driven pulley.) 

3. To find the number of revolutions of the driven 
pulley: 

Multiply the diameter of the driver by its number of 
revolutions and divide by the diameter of the driven. 
(4 x 1500 = 6000 ; 6000 ~ 20 = 300 — revolutions of driven 
pulley.) 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



POINTS ON SETTING UP LATHE AND 
SHAFTING 

The counter shaft should be about 7' above the lathe. 
A distance of 6' from the center of the shaft to the center 
c f the spindle is sufficient. In setting a lathe or hanging 
a counter shaft it is necessary that both be level. The 
counter shaft must be parallel to the line shaft. When 



the counter shaft is in position a plumb bob should be 
hung from the counter shaft cone to the spindle cone ; 
the lathe should be adjusted so that the belt will track 
between the two cone pulleys. The axis of the lathe 
must be parallel to that of the counter shaft. The lathe, 
however, need not be directly beneath the counter shaft 
as the belt will run on an angle as well as perpendicular. 



CHAPTER III 



WOOD TURNING TOOLS 



A wood turning kit should 
following tools. Fig. 2 shows 
tools. 
1%" Gouge 

3/4 Gouge 

y 2 " Gouge 

Ya" Gouge 
1J4" Skew 

54" Skew 

Yz" Skew 

Ya" Skew 

Y&" Parting Tool 

Yz" Round Nose 

Ya Round Nose 

Yz" Square Nose 



consist of one each of the 
the general shape of these 

Ya" Square Nose 
Yz" Spear Point 
y 2 " Right Skew 
Y2" Left Skew 

Slip Stone with round 
edges 
6" Outside Calipers 
6" Inside Calipers 
8" Dividers 
12" Rule 
Yz Pt. Oil Can 
Bench Brush 



GRINDING AND WHETTING TURNING TOOLS 

Skew Chisel 

The skew chisel is sharpened equally on both sides 
On this tool the cutting edge should form an angle of 



about 20° with one of the edges. The skew is used in 
cutting both to the right and to the left, and therefore, 
must be beveled on both sides. The length of the bevel 
should equal about twice the thickness of the chisel at 
the point where it is sharpened. In grinding the bevel, 
the chisel must be held so that the cutting edge will be 
parallel to the axis of the emery wheel. The wheel 
should be about 6" in diameter as this will leave the bevel 
slightly hollow ground. Cool the chisel in water 
occasionally when using a dry emery. Otherwise the 
wheel will burn the chisel, taking out the temper; the 
metal will be soft and the edge will not stand up. Care 
should be exercised that the same bevel is kept so that it 
will be uniformly hollow ground. The rough edge left 
by the emery wheel should be whetted off with a slip 
stone by holding the chisel on the flat side of the stone 
so that the toe and heel of the bevel are equally in con- 
tact with it. Rub first on one side and then on the other. 
The wire edge is thus worn off quickly as there is no 
metal to be worn away in the middle of the bevels. The 
chisel is sharp when the edge, which may be tested by 



ss 







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3ke>. 



Gouge-. 



Parting Too/. 



Spear Point 




^ZSL 




V X 




Round Point 



>Sauare Point 



Pight ^She-i* 



Le-ft Ske*. 




in 



WOOD TURNING TOOLS 



drawing it over the thumb nail, is smooth and will take 
hold evenly along its entire length. If any wire edge 
remains it should be whetted again. 

Gouge 

The gouge used in wood turning is beveled on the 
outside and is ground so that the nose is approximately 
semi-circular in shape. The tool is a combination of the 
round nose chisel and the ordinary gouge. The bevel 
should extend well around to the ends so that the cutting 
edge extends to each side. This is necessary to avoid 
the abrupt corners which would be present if the nose 
were left straight across as in the ordinary wood-working 
gouge. In making shearing cuts the round nose permits 
the tool to be rolled to the side to avoid scraping the 
work. The length of the bevel should be about twice 
the thickness of the blade at the point where the sharpen- 
ing begins. 

The sharpening of a gouge for turning is rather diffi- 
cult for the average student. The ordinary gouge which 
has a square nose may be beveled by merely turning it 
half way around and back again. In working out the 
round nose of a gouge for wood turning, it is necessary 
that the handle be swung from one side to the other 



while, at the same time, the chisel is revolved to cut the 
bevel evenly. It is sometimes necessary to allow some 
pupils to use the side of the emery wheel in sharpening 
the gouge. This kind of grinding, however, does not 
leave the tool hollow ground as when the face of the 
wheel is used. 

To complete the sharpening the rough edge is worked 
smooth on a slip stone, the cross section of which is 
wedge-shaped and the edges of which are rounded. The 
toe and heel of the beveled side of the gouge are brought 
into contact with the flat side of the stone. As the sharp- 
ening proceeds the wire edge is worked to the inside of 
the gouge. The rounded edge of the stone is then placed 
inside the gouge and is worked back and forth until the 
rough edge disappears. Great care must be taken not to 
bevel the inside of the gouge when whetting with the 
round edges of the stone, as the result will be the same 
as with an ordinary chisel or plane bit. 

Parting Tool 

The parting tool is sharpened on both sides. This 
tool differs from the ordinary chisel in that it is between 
54" and ^4" thick and only about %" wide at the widest 
point, which is in the center of its entire length. The 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



bevels must meet exactly at the center, or the widest 
point, and should make an angle of about 50° with each 
other. If the bevels do not meet at the widest point the 
tool will not clear, and the sides will rub against the 
revolving stock; the tool will be burned and will thus 
lose its temper. The bevel should be hollow ground 
slightly as then comparatively little metal need be 
removed when whetting. 

Scraping Tools 

The round nose, square nose, spear point, right skew 
and left skew are scraping tools, used chiefly in pattern 
work and sometimes in face-plate work. They are 
sharpened on one side only, and the bevel is about twice 
the thickness of the chisel at the point where sharpened. 



These tools should be slightly hollow ground to facilitate 
the whetting. Scraping tools become dull quite easily 
as their edges are in contact with the wood almost at 
right angles. After sharpening, the edges of these tools 
may be turned with a burnisher or the broad side of a 
skew chisel in the same manner that the edge of a cabinet 
scraper is turned though not nearly to so great a degree. 
This will help to keep the tool sharp for, as the edge 
wears off, the tool sharpens itself to a certain extent. 
The chisel is of harder material than a cabinet scraper so 
that it will not stand a great amount of turning over on 
the edge. Small pieces will be broken out, unless a flat 
surface is rubbed against the edge at a more acute angle 
than was used in the whetting. If a narrow burnisher 
is used, pieces are more likely to be broken out from the 
sharp edge and thus make the tool useless. 



CHAPTER IV 



SPINDLE TURNING 



Spindle turning is the term applied to all work done 
on a lathe in which the stock to be worked upon is held 
firmly between the live and dead centers. There are two 
methods in common use in wood turning: first, the 
scraping or pattern-makers' method ; and second, the 
cutting method. Each has its advantages and disadvan- 
tages, but it is necessary that both be learned in order 
to develop a well rounded turner. Care should be 
exercised, however, that each method be used in its 
proper place. The first is slower, harder on the cutting 
edge of tools, and less skill is required to obtain accurate 
work ; the second is faster, easier on the cutting edge of 
tools, and the accuracy of results obtained depends upon 
the skill acquired. As skill is the one thing most sought 
for in high school work, the use of the cutting method 
is advocated entirely for all spindle turning and, with 
but few exceptions, for face-plate and chuck turning. 

TO CENTER STOCK 

If the wood to be turned is square or rectangular in 
shape the best way to locate the center is to draw diag- 



onals across the end of the stock, 
section locates the center. 



The point of inter- 



CLAMPING STOCK IN THE LATHE 

Take the live center from the spindle and with a 
wooden mallet drive the spur deep into the wood. Never 
drive the wood onto the live center while in the spindle 
because serious injury may be done the machine by such 
practice. When extremely hard wood is being used, it 
is a good practice to make saw cuts along the diagonal 
lines and bore a hole at the intersection, thus allowing 
the spur to enter the wood more freely. Oil the other 
end of the wood while holding it in a vertical position, 
and give the oil a chance to penetrate into the wood. 
Then replace the live center by taking the stock and cen- 
ter and forcing it into the spindle by a sudden push of the 
hand. The tail stock is then moved about J/£" to 1" from 
the end of the piece to be turned, having the tail spindle 
well back in the tail stock. The tail stock is then 
clamped to the lathe bed. Turn the tail stock hand wheel 
until the wood is held firmly. Work the cone pulley by 



•J" 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 




hand at the same time, so that the cup or dead center will 
be forced deeply into the wood, so deeply that the live 
center will not continue to turn. Now turn the dead 
spindle back until the live spindle begins to turn freely 
and clamp the dead spindle fast. 

ADJUSTING THE TOOL REST 

Horizontally the tool rest should be set about ^" 
from the farthest projecting corner of the wood and 
should be readjusted occasionally as the stock diminishes 
in size. The vertical height varies slightly according to 
the height of the operator. It is even with the center 
of the spindle for a short person ; J/g ' above for a medium 
person; and ffi above for a tall person. So long as the 
stock is in its square form the tool rest should never be 
adjusted while the machine is in motion as there is 
danger of the rest catching the corners and throwing the 
stock from the machine. Also see that everything is 
clamped tight before starting the lathe. 

POSITION OF THE OPERATOR 

The operator stands firmly on the floor back far 
enough from the lathe to allow him to pass the tools 
from right to left in front of his body without changing 



SPINDLE TURNING 



the position of the feet. It may be found convenient to 
turn slightly, bringing the left side of the body a little 
closer to the lathe. In no case, however, should the tools 
be brought in contact with the body as the cutting opera- 
tion from right to left should be accomplished by a move- 
ment of the arms alone and not the swaying of the 
body. (Fig. 3.) 



wavering of the hand will not cause as much variance in 
the cuts as when held closer up to the rest. The left 
hand should act as a guide and should be held over the 
tool near the cutting edge. The little finger and the 
back part of the palm of the hand should touch the tool 
rest thus assuring a steady movement. The left hand 
should not grasp the tool at any time. (Fig. 3.) 



HOLDING THE TOOLS 

All tools should be held firmly but not rigidly. The 
right hand should grasp the handle at the extreme end 
for two reasons : first, to give as much leverage as pos- 
sible so that the tool will not be thrown from the hands 
in case it should catch in the wood; second, a slight 



USE OF THE TOOLS IN SPINDLE TURNING 

The correct use of the various tools used in spindle 
turning will be explained in detail as the steps are worked 
out in the sequence of operations on the exercises in 
Section A-I. 



CHAPTER V 



TOOL PROCESSES IN SPINDLE TURNING 



Exercise A-I — 1-a. Straight Cuts 
I. THE ROUGHING CUT (LARGE GOUGE). 
PIG. 4. I'l uo tlu- gOUge on the rest so that the level is 



■hove the wood and the cutting edge is tangent to the 




circle cm mui.'u oi the cylinder, 

hchl well down 



rhe handle should be 



Roll the gouge over slightly to the right so that it will 
make a shearing cut instead of a scraping cut. This 
rolling of the tool will also throw the chips from the 
operator. 

Then lift the handle slowly, forcing the cutting edge 
deep enough into the wood to remove all or nearly all 
of the coiners, at the end of the work which is being 
turned. This cut is begun about - 5 4 from the dead center 
end. Work back another - ; 4 . moving toward the live 
comer and make a second cut. and so on until the entire 
length of the cylinder is gone over. This method of 
removing corners should always be followed to avoid 
any possibility of breaking a large sliver from the stock, 
with consequent danger to the worker. 

The tool may then be worked from one end to the 
other, getting a fairly-smooth, regular surface, slightly 
above the diameter required. However, do not begin on 
the very edge of the cylinder end. It is better to begin 
about J from one end and work to the other, and then 
reverse and work back. 



TOOL PROCESSES IN SPINDLE TURNING 



The ^joI should also be held at a slight angle to the 
axis o£ the cylinder, with the cutting point always in 
advance of the handle. 




: THE SIZING CUT (SMALL GOUGE). FIG. 5. 

Set the calipers to the required diameter of the cylinder. 

With a small gouge held in the right hand scrape 
grooves about 1' apart, holding the calipers in the left 
hand perpendicular to the cylinder and measuring the 
cuts as they are made. The scraping should continue 
until the calipers will pass easily over the cylinder. It 



will be well while scraping to work the handle of the 
gouge a little from side to side so that the nose has more 
clearance. This will prevent the piece which is being 
turned from chattering or vibrating. 

The calipers will be slightly sprung by coming in 
contact with the revolving stock but this error in diam- 
eter will be removed by the finishing cut which removes 
these marks from the finished cylinder. 

3. THE SMOOTHING CUT (LARGE SKEW). 

FIG. 6. Lay the skew chisel on the rest with the cutting 
edge above the cylinder and at an angle of about 60" to 
the surface. 

Slowly draw the chisel back and at the same time 
raise the handle until the chisel begins to cut ab: 
to JS" from the heel. The first cut is begun from - 
from either end and is pushed toward the near end. Then 
begin at the first starting point and cut toward the other 
end. One should never start at the end to make a cut as 
there is danger that the chisel will catch and cause the 
wood to split or that the chisel will be torn from the 
hands 

The first cut takes off the bumps and rings left by 
the gouge, and takes the stock down so one can just see 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



where the scraping to size was done. Then take the last 
cut and remove all traces of these, leaving the cylinder 
perfectly smooth and of the required diameter at each 
end. Test the cylinder for accuracy with a straight edge. 



bility of the hand being drawn in between the cylinder 
and the rest. 

5. MEASURING FOR LENGTH (RULE AND 
PENCIL). FIG. 7. Hold the back edge of the rule in 




Big. 6. 



4. TESTING FOR SMOOTHNESS. In testing for 
smoothness place the palm of the hand, with the fingers 
extended straight, lightly on the back of the cylinder 



the left hand and place it on the tool rest so that the front 
edge is almost in contact with the revolving cylinder. 
With a sharp pencil mark off the required length. 



opposite the tool rest. This position will avoid any possi- starting from the dead center end. The first mark should 



TOOL PROCESSES IN SPINDLE TURNING 



25 



be just far enough in on the cylinder to insure cutting 
past the point of the dead center. This will leave all 
surplus stock at the live center end where it is needed, 
because, if not enough stock is left at this end, there 
is danger of striking the live center spur with the tool 
and of injuring the chisel and perhaps the work. 

In case several measurements are to be made, as in 
some of the following exercises, the rule should not be 
moved until all are marked. This will insure more 
accurate work than if the rule be changed several times. 

6. SQUARING ENDS (SMALL SKEW AND 
PARTING TOOL). FIG. 8. This operation is done 
with the toe or acute angle of the y^' or %" skew chisel. 

Place the chisel square on the tool rest. Swing the 
handle out from the cylinder so that the grind, which 
forms the cutting edge, next to the stock is perpendicular 
to the axis of the cylinder. The heel of the chisel is then 
tipped slightly from the cylinder in order to give clear- 
ness. Raise the handle and push the toe of the chisel 
into the stock about y 8 " outside the line indicating the 
end of the cylinder. Swing the handle still farther from 
the cylinder and cut a half V. This will give clearance 
for the chisel point and will prevent burning. Continue 



this operation on both ends until the cylinder is cut to 
about 3/16" in diameter. 

The remaining */&" is then removed by taking very 
thin cuts (about 1/32") holding the chisel as first stated. 
After each cut is made the end should be tested for 




squareness by holding the edge of the chisel over the end 
of the cylinder. 

This is an easy cut after it is mastered, but is one of 
the hardest to learn. Should the operator lose control 
of the tool and allow any part other than the point to 



38 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



touch the cylinder, a run or gashing of the wood will be 
caused. 

In large cylinders where considerable stock has to be 
cut away in order to square the ends, time will be saved 
by sizing the ends down with the parting tool to within 




Fig. 9. 
1 g" of the desired line, leaving enough stock at the base 
of the cuts to still hold the cylinder rigid while cutting 
on the ends. 

For this operation hold the parting tool on the rest 
with the cutting edge parallel to the axis of the cylinder 
and the lower grind tangent to the cylinder. Lift the 



handle and force the cutting edge into the wood ; at the 
same time push the chisel forward to keep it at the 
proper tangency. 

7. CUTTING OFF (SMALL SKEW). FIG. 9. 
After both ends have been squared cut away stock, at 
both ends, to leave just enough to hold the cylinder from 
separating from the waste ends. 

With the chisel held in the right hand in the same 
position as in squaring the ends, and the fingers of the 
left hand around the stock to catch it, slowly force the 
point of the chisel into the stock at the live center end, 
until it is cut free and the cylinder stops in the operator's 
hand. Too much pressure should not be used in this 
operation or it will cause the cylinder to twist off instead 
of being cut, and will leave a ragged hole in the end. 

The dead center end, which has been scored heavily 
before cutting off at the live center, is then removed by 
holding the grind of the chisel flat on the end of the 
cylinder. The latter is revolved by hand until the stock 
is cut away. 

Exercise A-I — 2-a. Shoulder Cuts 

1. Turn a cylinder to the largest diameter required. 

2. Lay off measurements with rule and pencil. 



TOOL PROCESSES IN SPINDLE TURNING 



27 



3. With the gouge (where space permits) or the 
parting tool (in narrow spaces) rough out surplus stock, 
keeping 1/16" away from the lines indicating shoulders. 

4. Caliper to the diameter of the second step. 

5. The shoulders are cut down as described in 
"Squaring Ends, Step 6, Straight Cuts." 

6. The new diameter or step is then trued up with 
a skew chisel in the same manner as a cylinder ; except 
that in nearing the shoulder the chisel is pushed up on 
the cylinder until the heel, which is the only part that 
can be worked into the corner, becomes the cutting point. 
Fig. 10. In very narrow steps it will be advisable to use 
the heel entirely as a cutting point. 

In spaces between shoulders, too narrow to permit 
the use of the skew chisel, very effective work can be 
accomplished by slightly tipping the parting tool side- 
ways to allow a shearing cut to be taken with the cutting 
edge. 

7. Where several steps are required on the same 
cylinder, each successive one is worked out as above 
described. 

Note : — All preliminary steps in working stock to 
size, laying of dimensions, etc., in preparation for the 
exercise in hand, will be omitted in the following exer- 
cises : 



Exercise A-I — 3-a. Taper Cuts 

Calipering for New Diameters. For all diameters on 
tapers the calipers should be set 1/16" larger than the 




desired measurement in order to avoid working under 
size in the finishing cut which removes all caliper marks. 
If the taper runs to the extreme end of the cylinder, 
as in Plate A-I — 3-a, a parting tool should be used, in- 
stead of a gouge, to take off a very thin shoulder. 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



If the taper forms an internal angle as in Plate A-I — 
3-b, a gouge is used as in Step 2 — Sizing Cut— Plate A-I 
— 1-a. 

In other cases where tapers connect with straight 
cylindrical shoulders it is best to turn the shoulders to 
size before working the tapers. 

In cutting a long straight taper the skew chisel is 
used, much in the same manner as in ordinary cylinder 
work, except that at the start of each cut the heel must 
be the cutting point. This will avoid any chance of the 
chisel catching and drawing back and thus gouging the 
wood beyond the starting point. As soon as the cut is 
well under way the chisel may be pushed up on the 
cylinder so that the cutting point is a little above the heel. 
All cuts should be made from the highest point on the 
cylinder to the lowest and thus cut across the grain of 
the wood. 

In making the cut, care should be taken to see that the 
chisel is not tipped to a greater angle than that of the 
taper wanted. Should that be done a hollow, or dished 
out, taper is sure to be the result instead of a straight 
one. 



Exercise A-I — 4-a. V Cutting 

In cutting V's a small skew is almost always used and 
the cutting is done with the heel. 

Place the chisel square on the tool rest so that the 
cutting edge is perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. 
Draw the chisel back and raise the handle so that the 
heel is driven into the wood, thus scoring it. This cut 
should not be too deep or the chisel will burn. This 
scoring should be at the exact center of the V cut. 

Swing the handle a little to the right and at the same 
time tip the chisel so that the grind, which forms the 
cutting edge, is at an angle of about 45' with the axis of 
the cylinder. The handle is then raised at an angle of 
45" bringing the heel down to make a good cut. The 
chisel is then swung to the other side and a similar cut 
is taken. These cuts are continued, together with the 
center scoring, until quite close to the pencil marks. 
Test the angle before the finishing cut is taken. 

It will be found best to have the V slightly greater 
than 90 at the base until the final cut is made, at which 
time it can be trued up. 

The V should be tested with the square end of a rule. 
The cylinder should not be in motion while testing. 

When angles other than 45" are cut, the cutting edge 



TOOL PROCESSES IN SPINDLE TURNING 



•2'.i 



of the chisel should be tipped so that it is parallel or 
nearly so to the side of the cut desired. 

A-I — 5-a. Concave Cuts 

The concave cuts as a rule will give the pupil con- 
siderable trouble at first owing to the fact that the grind, 
which forms the cutting edge and which must be held 
perpendicular to the cylinder at the start, is on the under 
side of the tool and cannot be seen. However, as soon 
as the correct angle of the tool is located, the cut will be 
found as easy as any. Concaves are usually made with a 
medium sized gouge either the ^4" or Ya '• 

Place the gouge on the rest with the grind or cutting 
edge well above the wood. The tool is then rolled on its 
side so that the grind at the cutting point, which is on 
the lip of the gouge well below the center, is perpendi- 
cular to the axis of the cylinder. Fig. 11. 

Slowly raise the handle to force the gouge into the 
wood. As soon as the gouge has taken hold, the tool is 
forced forward and upward by a slight lowering of the 
handle, while at the same time it is rolled back toward its 
first position. Care should be taken not to roll the chisel 
too fast or a perfect arc will not be cut. 

By this triple action the grind, which comes in con- 



tact with the surface of the curve, forces the lip sidewise 
and cuts one quarter of a circle. Reverse the position 
of the gouge and cut from the other side in the same 
manner to form the other half of the semi-circle. The 
cutting should always stop at the base of the cut as there 




is danger that the tool will catch when cutting against 
the grain of the wood on the other side. Repeat this 
operation until within about 1/16" of the required size. 
At the end of each successive cut the tool should have 
been forced far enough forward and upward to bring the 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



grind or nose of the chisel well out on top of the cut. 
Fig. 12. 

The exact depth of the concave is then calipered in 
the usual manner as described before. A finishing cut is 
then taken after the cut has been tested with a templet. 




Fig. 12. 

A-I — 6-a. Convex Cuts 

The convex cut, or Bead as it is usually called, is 

generally considered the hardest cut to make. — The cut 

is made with the heel of a small skew chisel, usually the 

U" or y 2 ". 



After the cylinder has been marked off, rough out all 
stock between the beads with a parting tool. The base 
of the cuts is finished the same as described in Plate 
A-I — 1-a, for shoulder cutting. With a sharp pencil 
mark the center of each bead to be made. This line is 
the starting point for all cutting. 

Place the chisel on the rest, with the cutting edge 
above the cylinder and the lower grind tangent to it. 
Draw the chisel back and raise the handle to bring the 
heel of the chisel in contact with the cylinder at the line 
indicating the center of the bead. The chisel is then 
moved to the right (if cutting the right side of the bead) : 
at the same time the chisel is continually tipped to keep 
the lower grind tangent to the revolving cylinder and 
also to the bead at the point of contact. Fig. 13. This 
cut is continued until the bottom of the bead is reached. 
It is well in turning a series of beads to work the same 
side of all before reversing to the other side. 

Note : — The same principles employed in this exercise 
are also used in working out long convex curves such as 
are found in chisel handles, mallet handles, etc. The only 
exception is that in most cases the point of contact need 
not be the heel of the chisel but higher up as in ordinary 
straight work. 



TOOL PROCESSES IN SPINDLE TURNING 



A-I — 7-a — Combination Cuts 

These exercises are so designed as to include one or 
more of each of the foregoing cuts. The student here is 
given an opportunity of combining these cuts into one 
finished product. 




An analysis of the exercise chosen should be made 
to determine which of the various cuts should be made 
first, second, etc., in order to produce the exercise in the 
shortest time and with the least amount of tool manipu- 
lation. 



After the student has mastered these cuts with a 
certain degree of skill and accuracy, he is ready to apply 
them in working out various models in Section II. 

A-II— 1-a. Chisel Handles 

At this point it is well to state that the small end of 
all work should be turned at the dead center. In the 
case of chisel handles the socket or ferrule end is at the 
dead center where the stock can safely be cut away to 
permit the fitting of the ferrule or the socket. 

After the stock is turned to a cylinder of the largest 
dimension desired, the taper, for the socket chisel, should 
be turned first and fitted to the chisel in which it is to be 
used. Then the rest of the handle is worked out. Fer- 
rules should also be fitted in the same manner. A drive 
fit should be used for all ferrules. 

A-II — 2 and 3. Mallets and Gavels 

The biggest source of trouble in these models is 
getting the handles to fit true. This is caused by not 
getting the hole in the head straight. 

Turn the head to a cylinder 3/16" larger than the 
finished dimension. Then bore the hole perpendicular 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



to the axis as near as possible, either by leaving it be- 
tween the lathe centers or by placing it in a vise. The 
handle is then fitted into the head. A snug fit is neces- 
sary. If one side "hangs" or is lower than the other the 
centers are moved sufficiently to correct it. The head 
is then turned to exact size and finished. 



A-II— 7. Vise Handles. 
Turn the spindle with the solid head to dimensions. 
Bore a hole through a l 1 /^" square block and fit the block 
snugly to the end of the spindle. Turn this block to the 
same dimensions as the other head. This method will 
save chucking the second head and is much quicker. 



CHAPTER VI 



OVAL TURNING 



Oval work as a problem in turning will be found to 
be a very good one as well as interesting to the pupil. 
It brings in the principle of the oval as used in ordinary 
shop practice ; (arcs from points on the major and minor 
axes). For thick heavy ovals the off-centering is very 
slight, while for long, thin ones the off-centering is 
greater. The measurements given on Plates A-III — 1-a, 
b and A-III — 2-a, b will give a good idea of approximate 
distances to be used. 

While the tool operations are much the same as in 
other spindle turning there is one notable difference. The 
design must be worked out by eye, because of the nature 
of the work no caliper measurements can be made for 
depth of cuts. 

To get the best results the stock of oval turning 
should be cut square or slightly rectangular in cross- 
section and about 3" longer than the model to be made. 
The thickness of the stock should be about y&" greater 
than the major axis of the oval wanted. 



The centers are located in the usual manner after 
which perpendicular lines are drawn from the sides, pass- 
ing through the points of the centers. From the ends of 
one of these, perpendicular lines are extended lengthwise 
of the stock (on opposite sides) meeting the correspond- 
ing perpendicular at the other end of the stock. These 
lines form the ridge of the oval. On the other perpendic- 
ulars, the points for off-centering are laid off, measuring 
the required distance on both sides of the center point. 

With a Ys" drill bore holes y^" deep at each of the 
off-centering points as well as the original center. This 
will insure the lathe centers penetrating the stock at the 
proper point. The stock is then placed in the lathe, using 
two corresponding off-center points as centers. 

With the lathe running at third speed turn down the 
stock to the horizontal line forming the ridge of the oval, 
excepting for a distance of about 1%" at the ends. The 
stock at the ends is necessary for the off-centering and, 
if cut away, will spoil the centering for the other side, 



OVAL TURNING 



especially at the live center end. The stock is then 
changed to the other off-center points and the second side 
is cut down to the line. 

All measurements are then laid out and the design is 
cut, changing the stock in the lathe when necessary. 
Care should be taken that the sharp ridge left on the 



work forms a straight line the full length of the stock. 
After the design has been finished, the stock is centered 
on the true center and a very thin cut is taken the full 
length of the object to remove the sharp corners. The 
model is then sandpapered while the lathe is running 
very slowly. 



CHAPTER VII 



DUPLICATE TURNING 



Under the head of duplicate turning have been classi- 
fied only such models as clearly indicate the necessity of 
making two or more articles to complete the model or set 
of articles desired. But it is not intended to convey the 
idea that other models may not be made in duplicate as 
in many cases it is very desirable and even preferable 
that they should be made that way. Whatever the prob- 
lem may be the suggestions offered at this point may be 
applied effectively. 

Whenever two or more models are to be made identi- 
cally alike there are always two possibilities of in- 
accuracies that will render the work dissimilar: First, 
inaccurate measuring both for length and points of new 
diameters and also on the new diameters themselves; 
second, a variation in the curved surfaces either on long 
convex or concave cuts. 

The first difficulty can be overcome to a great extent 
by the use of a measuring stick. This stick should be 
made of any soft wood. It should be straight on one 
edge and about the thickness of an ordinary rule. On 
the straight edge lay off very carefully measurements 
for length, shoulders, beads, concaves and all points 



where calipering for new diameters will be necessary. 
Insert at each point measured a small brad which has 
been sharpened at both ends, leaving the end protrude 
about Y& ". Care should be taken that all brads protrude 
the same distance. 

After the stock has been turned to the largest diam- 
eter, the stick is held in the position of the rule while 
measuring and the points are forced against the revolving 
cylinder, thus scoring it. This stick can be used as many 
times as the model is to be made and the measurements 
will always be the same. 

To avoid dissimilar curves it is well to cut out a full 
sized templet of the model to be made. This templet can 
be made of any thin, stiff material, preferably light sheet 
iron. In some cases it will be necessary to make the 
templet in several pieces in order to help facilitate the 
tool operations. 

The use of this templet will not only be a help to 
getting all curved surfaces the same, but will also check 
up on the various new diameters on the model. The 
cylinder should never be in motion while the templet 
is being used. 



CHAPTER Vm 



FINISHING AND POLISHING 



To get a high and lasting polish on wood, the work 

-_i-. :. -;■ ----- -.: z- -: zz zi-Zz.z.- - zzr. lr. 

iiz.-j.z-. :z \-:.-. zzzr. z-.z.r.zz :;: -_:.-. z- :-•: -_;: 
be p r o pe i ly fitted with a wood filter. If pr o per ly sharp- 
ened tools have been used very Httle sanding is required, 
-- - \-.z- z— :Z- -~z~z- :.-.:_.- :- .-: z-, .-. ;:r: -:: 
cut into the work as new paper cuts, v-m-m**** sand- 
paper is not to be used as a tool in cutting down stock 
when working to dimens i o n s . In using old «awipapcr 

7 -T -..-.: : -. Z- Z —Z :--Zz Zz.Z ". 1 :.l Z -~. .'. Z Z-'-i 

wood, especially on square or round fillets. Keep the 

--_;- ::' zr.z ::.-: -rzrz zr.z :; r. :: ;;- •.-•:—. ::_-. d 
In using new san d pap er use a fine grit (00 or 0) and 

- : ■ t :-t ;;:-" :'::-. zr.z -- i ;: --- . :-•: :; .-.; ; zr.tr 
--'■-'; -z ■--• -z -..--zr.ti ".:-.- :- zr.z --zzz.t ;:" -.-* 



T -..-■- --; :: -.-..;.-.:: :;. : - t ;:' • .. : — .t:r.:i: Ir. 
"~t - 1 -.- —-.-r.-.z z-. .-. r.-.ih.r.i :::.-.•=-' :=: :r.t: v;-- : 
•": '--.-.: :.-:. ; : - -i.-.t: ;- : r.llti :.-. i".v.r.- -.lit: 
-.- "t ; -- ;- •-- ; . • .--•;. ift: -.-.t ~.Zzr.z. r.zi 



zr.-.z i-TT.z.z-z. -.: r_: :--.: -_r.t :::- ::' •.- ■: ::: I: 
the highlights are to be brought out, as in the case of 

.-■: -zzr zr.z zr.tr z. - ; i 1.4-r.: ::i: ::' _-.-.;. .1; i-.; zzz.y 
the filler after the shellac is dry. The shellac keeps the 

zw-z t.'.'.zt ::.- izz.- .-. 4 zr.z r.z-.ii zi zr.z ; : .-: ::-•:-: ;r : 
--; :::;; ::' -..-•: ::: r... - ; : ;t:;rt T.-.t ; ::- = zz.z~ z 

!!-•:-: -_-_i- :-t r.i-:t; ir. . : -. -..-.; -z~.z z z -—.zzzr. 

surface is produced. After the filler has hardened the 
•••••: : z — z\ zz ■■■■ -.:=-. . z- zrzz.-.r.zz 

~r.z azz-i rr.zzr.zi z: 7:z~z:. zz.-r.r, .-. zzr-.z 
difficult to apply and requires a httle skilL A dose 
■£7z.-.zi ■■>■■-. zz .. Tiz -.zz'.z v.-.i: :t :":_r.i — :r; ;i-..::i;-.--.- 
: : : zr.z zzz.r.r.z: A - :-;.-. _- - - z z : : . - ; ;. z -. r ..zz 
.-. zr.z ;::.-!-; . ;■ ;: -..-.; _: = .- rr.i; :■= r.llti :;. r_i'::r.| 
into the pores of the wood a combination of shellac, 
rzzzr ;-:-; :: ;__—.:; :.. ;-; -.zzr... r.zzt- r.zr.i .-• 
--Z-Z :';: :;:■: -. ::; ir.i r_— .;; .: -:;: :':: - . -■ f-zzz 
~ r.z v. : : z -;; :-e .-:• .r. "t -;■_-:. :: r-.i.r.t. :- .r. -.ht 
first method. The mixture of shellac rotten stone, oil 
;-: ;..:-:. . : i::..;: -. ; zr.z ■.-■: ■■-.-. zr. z- zz, rr.ziz ::' 



FINISHING AND POLISHING 



cotton waste, wrapped in cheese cloth to keep it from 
sticking to the work. It should be about l 1 2 " in diameter 
and J 2 thick. Hold the pad over the mouth of a bottle 
of shellac and tip the bottle so that the shellac comes in 
contact with the pad. The shellac will remain clean in 
a bottle and will be handy. The mouth of the shellac 
bottle should be about 1" in diameter and should be 
dipped once. Do likewise with a bottle, having a mouth 
diameter, containing alcohol. This should be 
dipped twice allowing the alcohol to dilute the shellac. 
Then drop on a couple of drops of oil and rub over the 
pad evenly: this aids in distributing the shellac properly 
and keeps the pad from sticking to the work. A bottle 
may also be used for this. For the rotten stone use a 
pepper shaker so that it may be sifted on the work as 
needed. 

When the mixture has been applied to the pad, hold 
the pad against the work lightly at first, until most of the 
moisture has been worked out of it, and then gradually 
increase the pressure until the pad is almost dry. In 
putting on the first coat, use more shellac and alcohol 
and just enough oil at all times to prevent the pad from 
sticking to the work. However, the pad should not con- 
tain as much shellac that it can be squeezed out with the 



fingers. When the pad is dry, another mixture is applied, 
and where open grained wood is used, rotten stone, or 
pumice stone, is sprinkled on the work to gradually fill 
up the pores and to build up a smooth surface. Run the 
lathe at a low speed, depending on the size of the piece 
that is being polished. Allow the first coat to dry before 
applying a second coat for, if too much is put on at any 
one time, the heat generated in the rubbing will cause the 
shellac to pull, and it will form rings by piling up. These 
rings may be worked out in two ways, either by a slight 
pressure of the pad on the rings or by cutting them with 
alcohol applied to the pad. If too much alcohol is used 
it will cut through the shellac and remove what has 
already been rubbed on. If at any time too much shellac 
is used it will pile up and form rings. Too much rotten 
stone will cut down the polish and by absorbing the 
mixture will leave the pad dry. If too much oil is used 
the polish will become dull after a day or two. 

After the first coat has hardened apply the second, but 
use less shellac and more alcohol and just enough oil to 
prevent the pad from sticking. This may be done by 
dipping the tip of a finger in the oil and spreading it over 
the pad. The entire mixture should be so that only a 
dampness can be felt on the pad. As the process goes 



- 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



on less oil and shellac are used. All oil must be removed 
when applying the last coat, or the piece will lose its 
polish. All the pores should be filled, and no rings 
should be on the finished work. Where a natural finish 
is desired, apply a coat of boiled linseed oil twelve hours 
before the work is to be polished. This will bring out 
the grain and will also aid in applying the first coat ; no 
oil need then be used in the first coat. 

A great amount of practice and patience is required 
to get a first class polish. Polishing can only be learned 
by experience. Correct your troubles in properly propor- 
tioning the mixture. Never use too much shellac as it 
will build up too fast and will not harden, thus causing 
rings: or it will pull and catch to the pad, thus forming 



bunches. The purpose of alcohol is mainly to dilute the 
shellac and to prevent against putting it on the work too 
fast, but care must be taken not to use too much alcohol 
to cut the shellac entirely. The oil helps to distribute 
the shellac evenly, but it must be removed when finishing 
the last coat, or the polish will not remain. It also helps 
to keep the pad from sticking to the work. 

It is impossible to obtain a polish that will be as last- 
ing and rich by any method other than the one described. 
For success it is essential to learn the proportions of the 
mixture and to acquire skill in applying the materials 
by using exactly the right pressure and the right move- 
ment of the pad. 



CHAPTER IX 



FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING 



Face-plate and chuck turning open an entirely new 
field of work from that taken up in previous chapters of 
this book. If handled correctly, it has much greater 
educational and practical value than cylinder turning. 
From the practical standpoint the field of work is broader 
and the models to be made are of much greater value. 
Aside from this, trade methods and practices can be 
applied and a broad insight into commercial work can be 
given the student. 

In some details of chuck turning the tool operations 
already learned can be employed, but for the most part 
they are entirely different. In order to preserve the 
educational value of the work as brought out by skill and 
dexterity in handling tools, it will be necessary to use the 
cutting method wherever possible. In some instances 
that method will be impossible, and the scraping method 
must be used. 

METHODS OF FASTENING STOCK 

All the work thus far has been on models where the 
stock worked upon is held between the live and dead 



centers. In face-plate and chuck turning the work is 
done at the head stock only and the piece is supported by 
means of a face-plate, or chuck, that is fastened to a face- 
plate, which is screwed onto the end of the live spindle. 
There are three methods of fastening stock to the face- 
plate, and it depends upon the nature of the exercise or 
model to be made which method is used. 

1. SMALL SINGLE SCREW FACE-PLATE. For 
all work that does not require deep cutting in the center, 
such as in towel rings, picture frames, etc., the small 
face-plate with a single screw should be used. 

Note : — Should it be found difficult to keep the block 
from working loose and turning, it is a good plan to fold 
a piece of sandpaper, grit side out, and place it between 
the face-plate and the stock. 

2. LARGE SURFACE SCREW FACE-PLATE. 

For all work that does not require deep cutting on the 
outside, such as exercises, jewel boxes, etc., as well as all 
large stock, and all stock from which chucks are to be 



10 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



made, the large face-plate with the surface screws should 
be used. 

3. GLUING TO WASTE STOCK. A block of 
scrap wood is fastened to a face-plate the same as for a 
chuck and surfaced off square. The block from which the 
model is to be made is planed square on one side and 
glued to the block on the face-plate with a sheet of paper 
between the two. To separate the model from the chuck, 
after it is completed, place a chisel on the waste stock, 
1 16 back of the glue joint at such a point as will bring 
the chisel parallel to the grain of the model, and strike 
lightly with a mallet. This will cause the paper to 
separate and the model to become free. 

This method will be found very convenient epecially 
on models where the base is to be left straight. It will 
also be found to save much stock when working with 
expensive woods. 



LATHE ADJUSTMENTS 
To get the best results in face-plate or chuck turning 
there should be no end play in the spindle of the lathe. 
The spindle should always be tested out, and if any play 
is found, should be adjusted before attempting any work. 
It is almost impossible to make a true cut when such a 
condition obtains. 

POSITION OF TOOL REST 
For all face-plate and chuck turning the tool rest 
should be kept as close to the stock as possible, the same 
as in spindle turning, regardless of the angle it may be 
set. Vertically, the rest in most cases should be suffi- 
ciently below the center of the stock to bring the center 
or cutting point of the tools used, when held parallel to 
the bed of the lathe, even with the center of the stock. 
This last condition will necessitate adjusting the height 
occasionally when changing from large to small tools. 



CHAPTER X 



TOOL PROCESSES IN FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING 
B-I— 1-a. Straight Cuts 



1. ROUGHING OFF CORNERS. (3/ 4 " GOUGE.) 
FIG. 14. The tool rest is set crosswise to the bed of the 
lathe and parallel to the face of the stock. 

Place the gouge on the rest with the handle well 
down. Roll the gouge to the left until the grind which 
forms the cutting edge is perpendicular to the stock. The 
point of contact should be slightly below the center or 
nose of the tool. 

The handle of the gouge is then swung well to the 
back of the lathe or to the operator's right. The gouge 
is then pushed forward into the stock and to the left, 
making a shearing cut. The cut should not be too heavy. 
The starting point for this cut should be a line which will 
indicate the largest diameter or circle that can be made 
from the block. — This cut should be repeated until the 
corners are removed from the block. 

To complete the cutting of thick stock it will be found 
necessary to change the tool rest to an angle of 45° with 
the bed of the lathe. 




When hardwood is being turned it is sometimes 
advisable to saw the block almost round with a compass 
saw or bandsaw, if one is to be had. Should this be done 
the preceding steps are omitted. 



. 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



The tool rest is then placed parallel with the lathe 
bed and a roughing cut is taken with the gouge the entire 
thickness of the block. 

The lathe should be run on second or third speed until 
the corners are removed, and then changed to first speed. 

2. CALIPERING FOR DIAMETER. The true 
diameter is then calipered the same as in spindle work. 

3. SMOOTHING CUT. A smoothing cut is taken 
with a skew chisel the same as in spindle work. 




4. ROUGHING CUT ON THE FACE. (^" 
GOUGE.) FIG. 15. The rest is now placed parallel to 
the bed of the lathe and slightly above the center of the 
spindle. Place the gouge on the rest on its edge with 
the grind toward the stock and parallel to the face to be 
surfaced. The nose of the gouge is the cutting point. 

The handle is then raised and the cutting point is 
forced toward the center. A very thin shaving should be 
taken. If the gouge is allowed to roll back so the grind 
above the cutting point comes in contact with the wood 
it is sure to catch and gash the wood. 

5. SMOOTHING THE FACE. (SMALL SKEW- 
CHISEL.) FIG. 16. For all work up to 3 in diameter, 
the surface may be smoothed by using a small skew 
chisel in the same manner as in squaring the ends of 
stock in cylinder work. (Step 6 — Exercise A-I — 1-a, 
Straight Cuts.) 

For larger work, place the chisel flat on the rest with 
the toe next to the stock and the back edge of the chisel 
parallel to the face to be surfaced. 

The point of the chisel is then forced toward the 
center of the stock, using the straight back of the tool 



TOOL PROCESS IN FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING 




as a guide against the finished surface. Only a very thin 
cut should be taken at a time. 

Note : — While this operation may be termed a scrap- 
ing cut, it will be found to be much easier on the tool 
than if the cutting edge were held flat against the work 
as in other scraping cuts. 

The surface of the work should be tested for square- 
ness by holding the edge of the chisel or a straight edge 
across the face. 



LAYING OFF MEASUREMENTS 
In laying off measurements on the face of the stock a 
pencil compass or dividers should be used. Set the com- 
pass or dividers to one-half the diameter of the circle 
wanted. While one point is held at the exact center of 
the stock, which is easily located while the stock is 
revolving, the other is brought in contact with the revolv- 




ing stock until a circle of the correct diameter is marked. 

Should the center of the stock be cut away, rendering 

this method impossible, the following method may be 



II 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



used: Set the compass or dividers to the exact diameter 
wanted. Place one point in contact with the stock a 
little to one side of the required line on the part that is to 
be cut away. Bring the other point to the stock and see 



B-I— 2-a. Shoulder Cuts 

1. EXTERNAL SHOULDERS. FIG. 18. The sur- 
plus stock at each successive shoulder is roughed out 




if it touches the line first made. If not, move the first 
point until the two points track in the same line. 

The rest should be set at the exact center for measur- 
ing. 

All measurements on the edge of the stock can be 
made with pencil and rule as in cylinder turning. 



with a 3 4" gouge, keeping well outside the finished 
measurements. The gouge for this work is held in the 
same position as described in B-I — 1-a. Step 1, for 
Roughing Off Corners. 

2. For the finishing cut a small skew chisel is used. 



TOOL PROCESS IN FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING 



45 



and the process is the same as that used in squaring ends 
of stock. Both the vertical and horizontal shoulders can 
be handled easily by this method. Fig. 19. 

3. INTERNAL SHOULDERS. For internal shoul- 
der cutting the same methods may be used for roughing 
out and cutting the horizontal shoulders, but for the 
vertical or base shoulder it will be necessary to use the 
scraping process. (See "Use of Scraping Tools.") 

B-I— 3-a. Taper Cuts 

Taper cutting will not be found hard as the gouge and 
skew chisel are used in the same manner as described in 
B-I — 1-a, Steps 4 and 5. After the stock has been 
roughed away with the gouge to the approximate angle 
desired, a smoothing cut is taken with the skew. Care 
should be taken that the skew chisel is held at the exact 
angle of the taper desired. 



B-I — 5-a. Concave Cuts 

Place the y<{' gouge on the rest with the handle 
parallel to the bed of the lathe. Roll the gouge on its 
edge and swing the handle so that the grind is perpendic- 




B-I— 4-a. V Cuts 

V cutting will also be found easy as the tool process 
is exactly the same as that used in spindle turning. 
EXERCISE A-I— 4-a. Fig. 20. 



ular to the stock with the nose of the tool as the cutting 
point. 

Force the gouge forward into the wood. As soon as 
the cut is started, the handle is lowered and swung to 






A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



the left ; (if cutting the left side of the concave) at the 
same time the tool is rolled back toward its original posi- 
tion. This movement brings the cutting point farther 
down on the lip and the grind, resting on the side of the 




cut. will force the gouge sidewise and will form one- 
quarter of the circle. Fig. 21. 

This cut is continued from alternate side until the 
concave is nearly to size. The cut should be tested with 
a templet before the finishing cut is taken. 



B-I — 6-a. Convex Cuts 

Rough out the stock between the beads with a part- 
ing tool. 

Hold the edge of the gouge on the rest with the 
handle, parallel to the bed of the lathe, to make the nose 
the cutting point. 

Swing the handle to the left so that the grind will 
form a tangent to the bead at its highest point. 

The gouge is then forced into the stock and to the 
right : at the same time the handle is swung to the right: 
keeping the grind tangent to the bead at the point of 
contact. Fig. 22. This cut is continued until the base 
of the bead is reached. 

B-I — 7-a. Combination Cuts 

As in spindle turning, a combination exercise should 
be given at this point to provide an opportunity for study- 
ing out the best methods of working the various cuts just 
described into a finished product. 

USE OF SCRAPING TOOLS 

When scraping is to be employed, it should be done 
with only those tools that are made for that purpose, i. e.. 



TOOL PROCESS IN FACE-PLATE AND CHUCK TURNING 



47 



Square Nose, Round Nose, Spear Point, Right and Left 
Skew. The handling of these tools will be found easy. 
The only point to remember is that they should be held 
flat on the tool rest and parallel to the bed of the lathe 
when in use. 

In general practice the ordinary skew chisel should 
not be used as a scraping tool, for the cutting edge is not 
sharpened to withstand the heavy strain required by such 
work. Should it be necessary, however, to use a skew 
chisel as a scraper, the tool should be held so that the top 
grind is parallel to the bed of the lathe while in use. 

INTERNAL BORING 

In roughing out the center for Napkin Rings, Jewel 
Boxes, etc., the quickest method is to work it out with a 
small gouge. 

Place the gouge on the rest parallel to the bed of the 
lathe, having the point even with the center of the stock. 

Force the gouge into the wood until a hole is bored to 
the depth required. If the hole is deeper than 1", remove 
the tool often and clear out the shavings in order not to 
burn the point. 

In order to enlarge the hole to the proper size the point 
of the gouge is pressed against the left side of the hole a 



little above the center and a shearing cut is taken. To 
obviate the danger of the tool catching, all cuts should 
start from the back of the hole and proceed toward the 
front. 




B-III— 8-a. Sphere 

After the sphere is turned as nearly perfect as is 
possible when working between centers (Steps 1 to 4) it 
is cut free from the waste stock and is centered in a 
chuck. 

The chuck is made of any soft wood and should be cut 
in the end grain, which will insure equal pressure on all 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



sides. Equal pressure cannot be obtained if the chuck 
is cut in cross grain wood, owing to the tendency of side 
grain to give more than the end grain. The sphere should 
be forced into the chuck with slightly over half protrud- 
ing. Very thin cuts should be taken and the sphere 
should be revolved one-quarter turn after each until true. 
As the sphere becomes smaller during the cutting, it 



will be necessary to cut the face of the chuck down and 
bore the hole deeper and smaller in order to keep more 
than half of it protruding at all times. 

To remove the sphere tap the chuck lightly with a 
hammer just above it, at the same time pull out on the 
sphere. 




Mirror 290-301). 



CHAPTER XI 



SPIRAL TURNING 



Spiral turning is a subject that has received very little 
attention by most schools in which wood turning is 
taught. Spiral work is seen in antique furniture and also 
in the modern furniture of the present day. It seems 
that it takes the wheel of fashion about a century to make 
a complete turn, for what our forefathers neglected and 
destroyed the people of the present day value and cherish. 

Spiral work gives excellent practice in shaping and 
modelling wood. It brings into play the principle of the 
helix as used in cutting threads, etc. ; and its form, size 
and shape may be varied according to the taste of the 
individual. As in threads so in spiral work we have 
single and double spirals, and their form and proportion 
depend upon their use and application in furniture mak- 
ing. A variation of the spiral may be made in several 
ways : First, by changing the number of turns of the 
spiral on a straight shaft ; second, by running a spiral on 
a tapered shaft ; third, by changing the shape or form of 
the spiral itself ; and fourth, by making more than one 
spiral on a shaft. It is uncommon to see ten or twelve 
spirals running around a single shaft. 



Some of the forms of the above types are fully taken 
up and explained in the work that is to follow. 

PLATES B-V— 1-a, a'. SINGLE SPIRAL. 
STRAIGHT SHAFT 

To work out a single spiral for a pedestal proceed as 
follows : 

1. Turn a cylinder 214" in diameter. Make the ends 
slightly larger in order that the design may be turned on 
each, after the spiral has been worked out. 

2. Lay off spaces 2-1 16" apart on the cylinder while 
the spindle is turning in the lathe and divide each of these 
into four equal parts. Each one of these large spaces 
represents one turn of the spiral. A good proportion is 
slightly less than the diameter of the cylinder; thus the 
diameter of the cylinder equals 2%" and the width of the 
space 2-1/16". 

3. On the cylinder parallel to the axis draw lines 
A-A B-B C-C D-D. These lines should be 90° apart as 
shown in the top diagram (Plate B-V — 1-a')- Line D-D 



.Vi 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



is on the other side of the cylinder as shown in the top 
and middle diagrams. 




4. Start on line A-A at point X, circle 1, and draw a 
line connecting it with line B-B on circle 1'. Then con- 
nect B-B on circle l'with C-C on circle 2 and so on until 
a spiral has been drawn the entire length of the cylinder. 
This line will form the ridge of the spiral as shown in the 
middle diagram. 

5. Next begin on line C-C at circle 1, and draw a 
line connecting it with D-D on circle 1' then to line A-A 
on circle 2, and so on as before. This spiral represents 
the center of the groove or the portion which is to be 
cut away. This is not shown in the diagram because 
more or less confusion would be caused with the line 
representing the ridge of the spiral. 

6. Begin on line C-C at circle 1, and saw to a depth 
of ¥4". Saw the entire length of the cylinder leaving 
about 1^2" at the ends. Do not follow the line here, but 
switch off gradually and follow circles 1 and 15, so as to 
allow the spiral to begin and end gradually and not 
abruptly. 

7. Rough out with a knife or chisel by cutting on 
both sides of the saw cut. Then use a wood rasp to 
finish shaping out the spiral. When properly shaped out 
allow the lathe to turn slowly and smooth with sand- 
paper by following the spiral as the lathe turns. 



SPIRAL TURNING 



51 





■' # 




Pig. 25. 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



8. Cut the design on both ends of the cylinder and 
polish. 

PLATES B-V— 2-a, a , a". SINGLE SPIRAL. 
TAPERED SHAFT 

To lay off a single spiral for the electric lamp shown 
in Figs. 24 and 24a proceed as follows: 

1. Select your wood and bore a hole through it. 
Plug the hole and center the piece in the lathe. This 
insures getting the hole exactly in the center, and it 
will not be cut into while the cutting of the groove of the 
spiral proceeds. A groove may also be cut in two pieces 
of stock and glued together to form a hole through the 
stock. 

2. Turn a cylinder 2 1 2 " in diameter, tapering it to 
l 1 : at the one end; this part should be 12 T 8 long. 
Both ends should be left larger than 2 1 2 " as the lower 
and upper designs must be cut here. 

3. Let the spindle revolve in the lathe and draw 
circles as shown in the layout (Plate B-V — 2-a ). The 
number of circles will vary with the taper. Since seven 
turns are needed in the present spiral, 28 circles will be 
necessary — four circles for each turn of the spiral as 
shown in the middle diagram. A good proportion to fol- 



low is to measure the diameter of the spindle at circle 2 
and lay off this distance from circle 1 to circle 3. Then 
measure the diameter at circle 4 and lay off this diameter 
from circle 3 to circle 5 and so on until all circles have 
been made. Then divide these large divisions into four 
equal parts. 

4. Draw four lines the entire length of the spindle, 
each 90 : apart as shown by the heavy lines in the middle 
diagram. The heavy circles of the same diagram repre- 
sent the complete turns of the spiral. 

5. Lay out the line representing the ridge of the 
spiral as shown in the middle diagram. Begin on circle 
1, where the straight line crosses it, draw to circle 1 at 
the point where the next straight line crosses it, then to 
2 — 2 — 3 — 3' and so on until the end is reached. This 
forms the ridge of the spiral as shown in diagram 3. Next 
it may be more convenient to draw another line represent- 
ing the groove. In this case begin at point X in the 
middle diagram, opposite the point where first started, 
and continue in the preceding manner, making this line 
parallel to the other line. 

6. Saw on the line last made, being careful not to 
saw too deeply. The depth must be %" l ess than half 
the diameter of the spindle -where the cut is made. This 



SPIRAL TURNING 



saw cut forms the groove of the spiral. The groove is 
then cut out by hand with a chisel or knife, by working 
down the wood on both sides of the saw cut. After the 
spirals have been roughed out, a rasp is used to finish 
shaping them. The work is then sandpapered smooth, 
while the spindle is revolved slowly in the lathe. 

7. Cut designs on the ends of the cylinder and polish. 

PLATES B-V— 2-b, b'. DOUBLE SPIRAL. 
TAPERED SHAFT 

To work out a double spiral for the electric lamp illus- 
trated in Fig. 25 proceed as follows: 

1. Turn up the spindle in the usual manner. Since 
the base of the shaft is larger than the top, the spiral must 
also be in proportion and lines A-A', B-B', C-C, D-D', 
and E-E', are drawn around the shaft. To get the 
approximate spacing from circles A-A to B-B measure 
the diameter at A-A' plus about 3/16" and lay off from 
A-A' to B-B'. Then take the diameter of B-B' plus about 
3 16" and lay off from A-A' to B-B'. Then take the 
diameter at B-B' plus about 3/16" and lay off from circle 
B-B' to C-C and so on. If the shaft is tapered more, a 
different proportion must be used. Also if it is desired 



to have the twist wind around the shaft three times, a 
variation must be made in the number of circles. 




Fig. 27. 

2. If it is desired to have the twist wind around the 
shaft twice, draw circles 1-1', 2-2', 3-3', and 4-4' and the 
spaces will grow proportionately smaller at the small end. 



A COURSE IN WOOD TURNING FOR HIGH SCHOOLS 



3. Draw four lines running lengthwise on the spindle 
and 90 apart as shown in the midde figure in heavy lines 
(Plate B-V— 2-b). 

4. Begin at A and draw a curved line to where the 
90 line crosses circle 1-1'. From there extend the line 
to where the next 90 line crosses circle B-B' at point B . 
Continue in this manner until the other end of the shaft is 
reached. Begin at A' and draw a line on the opposite side 
of the shaft. These two lines running around and along 
the shaft form the grooves while the portion in between 
forms the beads of the double spiral. 

5. Saw to the desired depth, being *4" less than half 
the diameter at the point where cut. With a chisel or 
knife form the grooves and beads. It is necessary to be 
careful about not ending the grooves too abruptly. (See 
point 6 in Plates B-V — 1-a, a'.) Smooth with a rasp and 
sandpaper while the lathe is revolving slowly. 

6. Cut the design on the ends and polish. 

PLATES B-V— 3-a, a'. DOUBLE GROOVE SPIRAL. 
STRAIGHT SHAFT 

To work out the double groove spiral for the magazine 
holder illustrated, proceed as follows : 

1. Square up the stock to \y% ■ Center carefully and 




turn the design on both ends as shown in the upper 
diagram (Plate B-V — 3-a). Turn the cylinder between 
the top and bottom, making it 5 1 z " long and \y% in 
diameter. 

2. Divide the cylinder into two equal parts. Each 
part represents one revolution of the spiral. 

3. Divide each half into four equal parts as shown 
in the top and center diagrams (Plate B-V — 3-a), 1-1', 



SPIRAL TURNING 



55 



2-2', 3-3' and so on. The proportion of the distance be- 
tween these circles should be one-half the diameter of the 
cylinder. 

4. Draw lines A-A, B-B, C-C, and D-D, parallel to 
the axis of the cylinder 90° apart. 

5. With a band 3/16" wide of any substantial 
material (preferably a narrow strip of tin or a watch 
main spring) begin on the line A-A at circle 1, and 
connect circle 1' at line B-B, and then connect circle 2 
at C-C, and so on until the spiral is made the entire 
length. Mark on both sides of the 3/16" band so as to 
keep the spiral parallel. 

6. Next begin at the line C-C where circle 1 crosses 
it and connect from here to 1' at B-B. Proceed as in 
Step 5, as shown in the center diagram. 

7. Now erase the extreme ends of the spiral near 
circles 1 and 5, and deviate from the original spiral and 
follow the circles in a more parallel direction so as to 
allow the spiral to begin and end gradually and not too 
abruptly. Refer to the lower diagram for this. 

8. Cut out portions of wood between the bands 
previously marked around, as shown in the lower figure. 



The wood should be cut out with a knife so as to leave 
the corners sharp on the narrow bands. The portion cut 
out should be a semi-circle and can be sanded by making 
a spindle a little smaller than the distance between the 
bands and fastening sandpaper on the spindle. Place in 
the lathe and hold the spiral on the sandpaper cylinder 
at an angle so that the spiral will fit. Turn gradually 
and the sandpaper will smooth up the portion between 
the bands and true it up. At the ends where the grooves 
are smaller, use a smaller stick around which sandpaper 
has been wound and work out by hand. 

9. It is well to cut straight down, about 1/32" deep, 
along the lines marking out the narrow bands. Then 
the wood will not be so likely to split while removing the 
stock which forms the grooves between the bands. 

10. Cut out the mortises in the square portions which 
have been left at both ends. Make the frame work for 
the sides and cane. Glue together and polish. 

Note : — By making the posts smaller and using the 
same construction for a side a nice looking book stall may 
be made. The proportions for the posts are the same as 
mentioned in Step 3. 







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Z Block 




Z White 
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5 V Cuts 




Chess Men 

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/ Whits 
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2. White 
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L ay out for S/ng/e Spiral for Fbdesta/. 





323 



E/ecfr/c Reading Lamp. «* ^ 

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Layout for Single Spiral for Electric Reading Lamp 
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329 



f/ectr/c Ffeadmq Lam/) 




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12s- 



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B-Y 




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333 



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post* -/§"*/£"*//£' 
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•Side ??Qi As fo Posts- £■"■ 



Top 7to//-$ "X/X//'' 



337 



flagazr/ne fio/der. 





339 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



Mil I I 

013 961 992 4 



